It looked like the easiest place to break the drive-line was at the forward carrier bearing. Dropping it allowed me to remove the U-joint clamps. Noticed I taped up the U-joint caps to secure them.

I unbolted the PTO and tied it back out of the way. Drain the tranny before you do this. I draped a rag over it while the work was in progress to keep the crud out.

I removed the floor cover, parking brake handle and linkage and the shifter. I taped over the shifter hole.

I think the best way to do this is with an arm style engine puller but since I don't own one I had to use "field expediency". To pull the tranny I strapped it to a floor jack. This worked OK to get it out but because there is really no good spot on the housing to balance it on the jack pad, it flopped over to the right after I got it out. It was also sitting nose up because of the extra wieght on the rear.

There was no way I could manhandle it so I rigged up this apparatus to take the weight off the rear. Using this and the floor jack I was able to get it level in the pitch axis. It also helped to hold it level in the roll axis.

I used a long bolt in the upper left hole to align the housing before I stabbed the clutch. This one has 3" grip length plus 1 1/8" of threads. It then slid into the clutch plate like it was made for it. (The dirty transmission in the picture is not the one that went in the truck.)

Here's why I had to pull the tranny. A rat had built a nest in the clutch housing while the truck was sitting unused. After it was started, the nest was slung into the clutch when it was disengaged. Then it couldn't re-engage.

Here is a picture of the truck. I hope this info helps you. Happy "Stovebolting".

Charlie Hardin