THE OLD TIMING COVER TRICK

15 June 2004


The engine I'm using is a 248 out of a 1956 GMC. This created a problem with the front mount. The '56 uses a mount that bolts to the side; the '54 mounts with a plate that is under the timing cover. The plate on the '56 engine didn't have the mount flange. So........ easy task...just change the plate, right? WRONG! To change the plate you must remove the rocker assembly so you can remove the lifters so you can remove the cam. And before you can remove the cam you have to remove the oil pan so you can remove the timing cover. Easy task?

Well if I ever need to remove the timing cover again it will be easier next time because I did THE OLD TIMING COVER TRICK.

Click a picture to enlarge.

compare plates     The GMC plate at bottom and the Chevy 235 plate I replaced it with. Notice the little pipes sticking up? Those are oilers. The one on the Chevy was restricted so I cut it off where it's open like the GMC one.


Here's the reason the oil pan had to come off. The bottom two bolts of the timing cover go in from the inside. inner bolts    


OK, here's the trick. This can be done when you are re-building your engine or anytime you have the oil pan off. Remove the front main bearing cap. Be sure to put the bearings in a clean, safe place. There are going to be chips. tapping the holes     Tap the existing bolt holes with a 3/8-24 UNF tap. Thoroughly clean the bearing cap before re-assembly.


Next you'll need to drill the two threaded holes in the cover out to 3/8". Now the two bottom bolts go in from the outside like the rest. better than new    
I used grade 8 bolts, probably over-kill but they're only a few cents more. Be sure to seal them to prevent oil leaks.